Ways to Identify if Pearls Are Real
Jennifer Tanpoco, widely known as the Queen of Pearls in the Philippines, believes that recognising a genuine pearl becomes intuitive once you understand its natural characteristics.
Real pearls are formed organically and almost always show subtle textures, growth marks, or minute irregularities. A strand that appears perfectly smooth and uniformly round — resembling plastic beads — is often an imitation. Authentic pearls display natural variation, even when well matched.
Next, observe how the pearl interacts with light. Genuine pearls reflect light with depth and softness, created by layers of nacre. While fine pearls can show sharp reflections, they do not appear glassy or metallic like artificial materials.
Weight is another useful indicator. Real pearls generally feel heavier than they look due to their nacre structure, whereas imitation pearls often feel noticeably lighter.
Finally, examine the lustre and colour. Authentic pearls exhibit depth, with subtle shifts in tone and overtone as light moves across the surface. Imitation pearls tend to look flat or uniformly coloured, lacking this layered visual complexity
The Seven Pillars of Pearl Grading
Every pearl is unique — no two are ever exactly the same. To truly understand a pearl’s beauty and value, it helps to know how pearls are graded. Professionals assess pearls using seven key pillars, each revealing something different about quality, rarity, and longevity.
Let’s walk through them together.
1. Colour
Pearl colour isn’t just about light or dark — it’s layered.
Each pearl has:
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Body colour (the main colour you see)
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Overtone (a translucent hue sitting on the surface)
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Orient (the subtle iridescent glow seen in fine pearls)
For example, a Tahitian pearl may appear grey but show green, blue, or peacock overtones when it catches the light. Colour preference is subjective, but rarity and harmony of tones can significantly influence value.
2. Lustre
Lustre is often considered the most important factor in pearl grading.
It refers to how sharply and brightly light reflects from a pearl’s surface. High-lustre pearls appear bright, crisp, and almost mirror-like, while low-lustre pearls look dull or chalky.
Lustre is primarily influenced by nacre thickness and quality. The thicker the nacre, the higher likelihood of a stronger and deeper glow.
Lustre is graded along a spectrum:
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No lustre
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Poor
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Fair
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Good
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Very good
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Excellent
The sharper the reflection, the rarer — and more valuable — the pearl.
3. Shape
Perfectly round pearls are the rarest and most prized, as they are the most difficult for oysters to produce naturally.
Pearl shapes include:
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Spherical / Round
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Near-round
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Symmetrical
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Oval
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Button
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Drop
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Semi-baroque
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Baroque
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Circled
While round pearls command the highest prices, baroque and semi-baroque pearls are celebrated for their individuality and artistic character. Shape affects value — but uniqueness also has its own beauty.
4. Size
Pearls are measured in millimetres (mm). Larger pearls take longer to form and are generally rarer.
Typical size ranges:
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Small: 2–8mm
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Medium: 9–12mm
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Large: 13–14mm and above
As size increases, so does rarity — especially when combined with high lustre and clean surfaces.
5. Surface
No pearl is truly perfect, but fewer and smaller surface marks indicate higher quality.
Surface characteristics are graded as:
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Heavily Spotted (HS): obvious irregularities
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Moderately Spotted (MS): noticeable surface features
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Lightly Spotted (LS): minor marks
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Clean (CL): tiny blemishes, hard to see
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Spotless (S): no visible blemishes to the naked eye
A helpful test: hold the pearl near bright light and gently roll it. Thin nacre may appear to “blink,” which signals weaker lustre and faster wear.
6. Nacre
Nacre is the heart of a pearl’s beauty and durability.
Thick nacre gives:
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Strong, lasting lustre
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Better resistance to wear
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Greater longevity
If the nucleus shows through or the surface looks chalky, the nacre is thin — reducing both brilliance and lifespan. A pearl with excellent nacre will age beautifully over time.
7. Matching
Matching matters most in strands and multi-pearl designs.
Professionally matched pearls should align in:
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Colour
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Lustre
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Size
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Shape
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Surface quality
Designers may intentionally mix pearls for artistic effect, but traditional fine jewellery values consistency and harmony across every pearl used.
At Jaune Pearls, our certified pearl experts carefully select only the finest Tahitian pearls, chosen for their natural beauty and quality. Using clear grading standards and a thoughtful approach, each pearl is selected to be worn, loved, and treasured over time.
The founders of the jewellery house are proud alumni of the Gemological Institute of America, reflecting a strong commitment to authenticity, craftsmanship, and pearl education.
Every Jaune Pearls piece comes with a certification of authenticity, giving you confidence as you choose a pearl that suits your personal style.
Explore our collections and find the pearl meant for you.
